Antique Victorian jewellery refers to pieces created during the reign of Queen Victoria between 1837 and 1901. This was a period of enormous social change, industrial innovation and global expansion - all of which shaped jewellery design in lasting ways.

Today, antique Victorian jewellery is highly sought after for its rich gold tones, old cut gemstones and deeply symbolic designs. Whether in the form of Victorian rings, brooches, lockets or watch chains, these pieces remain both wearable and historically significant.

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Gold, empire and expanding trade

The Victorian era coincided with major gold rushes in California, Australia and South Africa. Increased gold supply transformed jewellery production and accessibility.

In 1854, Britain formally introduced 15ct and 12ct gold, both of which became widely used in Victorian jewellery and are now important indicators when identifying authentic pieces. These carat standards were also adopted in colonial Australia, making them particularly relevant to collectors today.

Sovereign coins were sometimes mounted into jewellery, converted into love tokens or worn as statements of status. If you collect or wear antique gold jewellery, Victorian pieces often stand out for their warmth, weight and craftsmanship.

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Diamonds and the rise of old cuts

The discovery of diamonds in South Africa in the 1860s dramatically increased the availability of diamond jewellery. During this period, older rose and table cuts gave way to old mine cut and early brilliant style diamonds, prized today for their soft, romantic sparkle.

Victorian gypsy rings - with diamonds set flush into thick gold bands - became popular as friendship and engagement rings. These designs remain highly collectable, especially in antique and vintage diamond rings featuring original old cut stones.

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Coloured gemstones, pearls and opals

Coloured stones were highly fashionable during the Victorian era. Garnets, emeralds, sapphires, rubies and spinels appeared in cluster rings, brooches and pendants.

Natural pearls, particularly seed pearls, were also widely used. Before the development of cultured pearls in the early 20th century, all pearls were naturally formed, making them rare and valuable. Seed pearls were commonly set into delicate gold brooches, star/celestial motifs, crescent designs and intricate rings. Larger natural pearls were reserved for higher-end pieces.

Australian opals, discovered in 1849 and increasingly mined by the 1890s, added vibrant flashes of colour to late Victorian jewellery.

Paste (glass) jewellery also existed during this time, allowing fashionable styles to reach a broader middle class.

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Jewellery as status and sentiment

Victorian jewellery functioned as social language. Men commonly wore pocket watches paired with Albert chains, fobs, sovereign holders and vestas. Women wore brooches, lockets and rings that signified identity, affiliation or memory. Heavier signet rings and knot rings also gained popularity.

The popularity of snake rings surged after Queen Victoria received one as an engagement ring from Prince Albert in 1839. The coiled serpent, symbolising eternal love and fidelity, quickly became a fashionable motif across Britain and its colonies. Following the death of Prince Albert in 1861, mourning jewellery became widely worn. Materials such as Whitby jet, bog oak, teeth, black enamel and intricate hairwork were used to create pieces that expressed remembrance and devotion.

Sentimental jewellery also flourished. Acrostic rings (where the first letter of each gemstone spelled words such as “DEAREST” and "REGARD") were a particularly romantic form of Victorian sentiment, and remain among the most charming examples of 19th century design. Their appeal endured well beyond the era itself, with the later Victorian Revival movement reintroducing and popularising these symbolic gemstone arrangements.

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Why Victorian jewellery remains collectable

Victorian jewellery marks a turning point in history where expanding industry met skilled craftsmanship, and symbolism was woven into everyday adornment.

Collectors are drawn to:

• Original old cut gemstones
• Rich 15ct and 12ct gold
• Distinctive symbolic motifs
• Increasing rarity and historical importance

Antique Victorian jewellery offers more than aesthetic appeal - it offers connection to a defining century of design.

Explore our curated range of antique and vintage jewellery to find the next special piece for your collection.